Village Tour

The children of Kapinga followed along with us as we toured the island. I have my new woven purse and coconut water to-go. Note the architecture of the dwelling in the background. (Photo by A. R. Dona)

Whenever we arrive at a new atoll, Konrad goes ashore to request permission from the chief to study their reefs.  This is always a delightful experience for the few scientists and crew who are able to accompany him and glimpse the island lifestyle that is so different from our own.  At Kapingamarangi, I was thrilled to join Konrad for the initial visit to gain permission, and again two days later, for a longer visit to tour the village.

The people of Kapinga were quite modest but also very friendly and welcoming, generously offering us coconuts upon our arrival and allowing us to tour their village. On one atoll, they gifted Konrad with a beautiful sarong, and they piled our boats with coconuts and bananas. On Kapinga, they offered woven palm purses and wood carvings for purchase.  We brought a heap of toys, games, t-shirts, DVD’s, school supplies and non-perishable foods to thank them for their hospitality.  

I especially enjoyed giving them my hula hoop.  I demonstrated before a crowd of children, but they were too shy to try immediately. So I asked another scientist to be the sacrificial jester and demonstrate his not-so-good skills.  This broke the ice and a brave young girl mustered up the nerve to try. She was great! I wonder if they already have hula hoops here and the joke is on me!

The village layout reminds me of a campground, with a looped walking path and plots of land on either side.  Each plot has structures made of tree trunks propping up thatched roofs under which people lounged in hammocks or sat on stumps preparing food. If there are walls, they are of woven palm.  Each family owns pigs and chickens, which they reserve for special occasions.  They also have plots of land for growing taro, and they harvest bananas, bread fruit and coconuts from the trees. Each family also has a simply water distillation system that they use for drinking water if there is not sufficient rain. 

Each atoll has a small elementary school.  For high school and college, the students must go to the larger islands. The only transportation between the islands is the supply ship that comes three times per year. This means that students might not see their families for several years at a time.

The school is a concrete structure with desks and chairs in the class rooms as we would have. There is a tall pile of well-worn text books in a room that they hope to turn into a library. They learn English from a very young age.  Although some are too shy to speak, they understand very well. There is a basketball court in front of the school that is converted to a volleyball court by setting up a handmade net on wooden posts. The school has solar panels donated by the EU development funds. These give the people some independence from the delivery of batteries and generator fuel by the supply boat. However, when the system breaks, it requires either creative engineering to fix it with limited resources, or patience to wait for the resources to arrive.

The people generally seem happy, healthy and strong. Those with whom I spoke said they do not feel want for food or water. I imagine the biggest stresses derive from the failure of radios and solar panels or the lack the medicine to treat an illness or medical emergency.  

I spoke with two young men who were schooled in Pohnpei, the capitol. One wishes to go back to Pohnpei for work or to join the US Army. The other returned to his small atoll because he prefers the lifestyle there and believes it is better to raise his children on the atoll rather than the capitol city. 

Kapinga children hula hooping. (Photo by A.R. Dona)